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April
2003 - Gardening
The
Ultimate Wedding of Art & Nature - by
Barbara Hodges
Brookgreen
Gardens.
Beyond the dynamic sculpture, Fighting Stallions by Anna Hyatt
Huntington, at the entrance to Brookgreen Gardens, anticipation
is heightened by the long, curving driveway to the center
of activities. Keep your eyes open for wildlife as well as
still life animals and birds can be spotted along with
sculptures subtly displayed en route. Plan to treat yourself
to some quality time enjoying the manifold splendor that is
Brookgreen Gardens. |
This is not a place to be rushed through in order to get to
the next, but a destination in itself. It is the first public
sculpture garden in the United States and has the finest collection
of American figurative sculptures in the world on permanent
exhibition outdoors in a garden setting. Here, natural beauty,
art and science join hands in this creation where man and
nature have come together so harmoniously. The gardens are
located on the west side of Highway 17, approximately 75 miles
north of Charleston, between the communities of Pawleys Island
and Murrells Inlet. They were founded in 1930 by Archer
Milton Huntington, heir to his fathers railroad and
shipyard fortune, and his wife, sculptress Anna Hyatt Huntington.
It began in the usual snowbird fashion of wealthy Northerners
escaping to a more agreeable climate for the winter months.
But in 1929, instead of investing in a timeshare, the Huntingtons
purchased four adjacent former rice plantations plus a little
extra beach property for a total of 9,127 acres, stretching
from Atlantic Ocean to freshwater swamps along the Waccamaw
River. So much fallow land offered great promise to those
who could use it well, and use it well they did. Starting
at the welcome center, pick up a map. Join one of the many
complimentary walking tours or go at your own leisure, but
do not neglect to view the ten-minute introductory film, which
sets the mood. The formal entry is guarded by a pair of stone
lions that frame a reflecting pond centered with Anna Huntingtons
sculpture, Diana of the Chase. Although brightly hued koi
may crowd the edges seeking a handout, pass on through the
wrought-iron gates ahead to the magnificent live oak allée.
These two-and-one-half-century-old specimens are stunning
in size and splendor. The effect of perspective makes the
allée appear long, the gilt sculpture of Dionysus just
visible as a faraway focal point. It is actually rather short,
consisting of only four mammoth oaks on either side of the
central walk. Along the way are flowers, flowering shrubs
and trees, evergreens and at intervals, charming life-sized
figures of children and animals. The entire space is enclosed
by a pierced brick wall, just high enough for a sense of enclosure,
but not too high for intimations of what lies beyond.
As you traverse this and other garden rooms, smaller and more
beckon from every side, inviting you to stroll to another
and then another scene of extraordinary beauty in both sculpture
and blooming shrubs, perennials, annuals, bulbs, banks of
mature indica azaleas and dogwoods. View wide open fields,
centered with sculptures such as the Don Quixote tilting at
his windmills, accompanied by faithful, long-suffering Sancho
Panza.Finally, you will arrive at a low perimeter wall looking
out over the original abandoned rice fields where a sense
of history can be acutely felt.By turning either left or right,
you can enter other rooms, each different and, if possible,
more enchanting than the last. Yet, this exploration can all
be done at a comfortable pace, as benches, chairs and sitting
walls are plentiful. Immediately to the left of the Dionysus
sculpture is the old kitchen building, offering light refreshments,
pastries, coffee sculpture court on the right where a narrow
canal flows through the center of a pierced brick gallery
lined with small captivating figures of children, animals
and sea creatures. Water is used intensely in many unique
ways at Brookgreen. Most of the main rooms feature a circular
or rectangular pool centered by a sculpture or fountain or
both. Carl Milles Fountain of the Muses is the most
lively, where five figurative Muses fairly skip over the water
in joyous abandon, accompanied by dolphins spouting water.
Enjoy lunch at the Pavilion Restaurant or the outdoor Courtyard
Cafe. The adjacent Lowcountry Center, opened in 2002, is worth
a look as well, not only for its small but stunning exhibition
of the life , tools and views of an 18th century working rice
plantation, but for its remarkable aerial mosaic map of the
Lowcountry area surrounding Brookgreen, which forms the entire
floor of the small museum. A short step away, stroll a boardwalk
overlooking former rice fields where large unwieldy trunk
docks, which once controlled irrigation with the manual help
of slaves, are visible. Birders find it irresistible. Additional
pleasures include a pontoon boat trip up tidal creeks with
an interpretive guide, as well as a Trekkers vehicle
ride which takes you into the real backcountry surrounding
the gardens proper. Both trips take about an hour and are
available for a minimal fee. Courteous and informed assistance
is accessible everywhere you go. With such gracious guidance,
see what you can, then start making plans to return! Think
April. |
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Hilton Head Monthly
Hilton Head Monthly
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