July 2003 - Surf's Up
Hangin' Ten on the Shores of Hilton Head
"Yo dude, I saw you bogulating and really eat the cookie!" A foreign tongue? Translation: "My friend, your surfing was extremely inferior and it caused you to wipe out in the white water." Not mainstream dialogue for many, but unless you were raised by wolves or born into isolation on an Arctic glacier, even landlocked citizens living far from shore have most likely been exposed to expressions such as "surf 's up," "hang ten," or "wipe out." Perhaps the Beach Boys said it best, though, when, according to their "Surfin' U.S.A." album liner notes (1963), they referred to surfing as the following: a water sport in which the participant stands on a floating slab of wood resembling an ironing board in both size and shape and attempts to remain perpendicular while being hurtled toward the shore at a rather frightening rate of speed on the crest of a huge wave. (Especially recommended for teenagers and all others without the slightest regard for either life or limb.)

Accompanying this classic definition would typically be the belief that the act of surfing must be confined to the Beach Boys' popularized shores of California, the tropical beaches of Hawaii, the intense waves of Costa Rica, or monstrous tides of Australia. Hilton Head Island doesn't usually pop into the minds of surf gurus or boarding wannabees. Most locals or tourists would probably scoff at the idea that the island's miles of family-friendly beaches could produce anything more than a watery hiccup, let alone ample force to propel a boarding hopeful to shore. However, the 300 plus surfers in the Hilton Head area, including local Caitlin Lawson (13), who recently placed second in the state, will argue otherwise. Lawson will also offer several sources that claim women's surfing has become the fastest growing sport in the U.S. today.

Although our geography doesn't typically lend itself to 12- foot "thunder crushers," except during hurricane outbreaks, experienced surfers up for slightly milder joy riding, or beginners who harbor a slight fear of death, will find that our island shores offer fairly impressive conditions. Attested John Tolly, owner of the Sunny Daze Surf Factory on Hilton Head, "The waves here are more powerful than people think. Often times, grown men, who are just beginning to learn how to surf, underestimate the waves and are taught a fairly humbling lesson. However, this is one of the best places to learn." Tolly, turned off by the idea of spending his days behind a desk, gave up a career in furniture sales to build custom boards and teach others the joys of surfing.

Now in its third year, Sunny Daze is the only game in town where folks can buy new longboards, shortboards, skinboards, board shorts and more. Surfers can also rent boards, sell used boards and sign up for lessons. Tolly's specialty, however, is making customized boards to match a surfer's specifications or suit a newbie's needs. He begins with a white piece of foam that he sands and shapes by hand. Next, while donning a military style gas mask (with carbon filters), Tolly applies an ultra
thin layer of fiberglass; a technique known as "glassing." The mask prevents shaved fiberglass particles from entering his lungs. Finally, the colorful and creative artwork is stroked or airbrushed on. Surfing apparel commonly consists of a bathing suit, "board shorts" or trunks, tank tops or, in harsher conditions, wet suits. Most surfers also utilize a "leash" that connects the board to their ankle and keeps it from drifting away.

So, you have your attire and a board. Now what? Taking a lesson or two might not be a bad idea, but if you prefer to wing it, head out to Burke's Beach or North Forest Beach. According to Tolly, these areas offer the best surfing conditions, and this is where you'll see most of the locals hanging out. Your naiveté will cause you to falsely believe that the waves appear insignificant. This is good. If you had a clue, you might not leave the sand. Strap on your leash, attempt to gracefully tote your board to the beckoning surf, and then start paddling out or pushing the board out to waist-high water. Shuffling your feet is recommended to avoid disturbing unsuspecting stingrays. Getting stung might put a damper on your surfing experience. A few Hail Marys inserted here might not be a bad idea either. Lie down on your board and wait for your wave.

First-timers can cheat by watching others. When you see "it" coming, face the shore and begin paddling toward it. Yay, this is fun. Once you feel the wave shove you, quickly and agilely (ha, ha) move to a standing position with your best foot forward. Stick your arms out. Experts will tell you it aids balance, but it really serves to make you look cool. When a tiny Hilton Head wave thrashes you, bringing your thrilling two-second ride to a halt and plunging you under the salty, brain-pounding water, cover your head to keep from getting skulled by the board, then surface. If you find you are feeling elated and smiling through sandy tears, rinse and repeat. With a little practice, you could become competition worthy and consider joining the local surfing team. If you feel paralyzed with fear, go to your nearest Blockbuster, rent the entire Jaws series and head for home. To get your own landlubber feet wet, contact John Tolly at Sunny Daze Surf Factory: 682-3293. For more information regarding local and regional competitions, visit the Eastern Surfing Association online at www.surfesa.org.