June 2003 - Shrimp Tasty Native Battles Tainted Import Fried shrimp, stuffed shrimp, battered shrimp, shrimp cocktail, shrimp boil, shrimp scampi, shrimp with "chlor...am...pheni...," what?! As proclaimed by the shrimp exalting character "Bubba," of "Forest Gump" notoriety, there exist at least a thousand ways to prepare and enjoy freshly caught, succulent shrimp. If memory serves, not one of his culinary recommendations involved a recipe list that included antibiotics. Particularly none as potentially lethal as chloramphenicol - a drug that has been found at dangerous levels in imported shrimp and is believed to cause cancer. According to the "Merck Manual of Diagnosis and Therapy," found online at the well-known pharmaceutical company's www.merck.com site (see "Section 13. Infectious Diseases, Chapter 153 Antibacterial Drugs), this antibiotic (pronounced "kloor-em-fen-i-call") "inhibits bacterial protein synthesis." In lay terms, it is supposed to kill bacteria that may infect an individual. The manual goes on to state that chloramphenicol therapy should be limited to major infections when alternative drugs prove to be more toxic or not as effective, because it can cause a lethal complication known as aplastic anemia. Merck's summary also links chloramphenicol to "gray baby syndrome," an often fatal illness which effects newborns and occurs as a result of the young liver's inability to process this drug. Other adverse reactions listed include possible bone marrow depression, optic and peripheral neuritis, nausea, vomiting and diarrhea. So why has this drug became a topic of debate and controversy in the Lowcountry? First, because two of the largest shrimp exporters to the U.S., based in Thailand and Vietnam, use chloramphenicol and export in excess of 400,000 metric tons of shrimp to the U.S. each year; a sizable portion of that shipment ends up in market cases and on restaurant tables in the Lowcountry. Second, because the high volume of imported shrimp flooding our market is crippling an already strained shrimping industry and forcing its struggling members, and proponents, to unify, speak up and take action. Some of these supporters include local Representatives Catherine Ceips, RBeaufort, and Bill Herbkersman, RBluffton, who got involved in order to protect a dying trade, promote a local product and help prevent illness and fatalities caused by dangerous goods. Although the FDA issued a warning nearly two years ago about the dangers of chloramphenicol, U.S. Senator Ernest Hollings' office reported that the federal agency continues to inspect only about two percent of seafood imports, and does so with testing methods that far from measure up to those implemented by countries like Canada and the European Union. So even though the U.S. has joined these two countries in banning the chemical, critics of the current regulations argue that insufficient screening allows importers to flood our markets with potentially cancer causing shrimp. Some consumers, so desensitized to the word cancer, have become somewhat complacent regarding health and food consumption, in spite of warnings. The state House of Representatives, however, is promoting awareness and pushing for stricter federal regulations. In fact, the House approved a resolution, introduced by Ceips and Herbkersman in March 2003, that focuses on Asian shrimp harboring the cancer-causing agent. Herbkersman said that the resolution was a necessary measure taken to open the door for a drug testing bill. His simplified and preferred solution? Buy local shrimp. Many, like Herbkersman, agree that the nutrient-rich waters and marshes of the Lowcountry provide naturally ideal harvesting beds known to spawn superbly sweet, drug-free shrimp, loaded with flavors unique to our region. So why do so many area restaurants and markets choose to serve shrimp imported, usually frozen, from places like Asia or the Gulf of Mexico? Some merchants claim that it's a matter of cost, stating that imported shrimp is cheaper, while others claim an alleged requirement to adhere to national guidelines regarding shrimp size consistency. Still other vendors refrain from buying local shrimp because they feel that doing so requires greater effort. Some post signs in their cases indicating that they feature local shrimp, however their definition of local may include shrimp imported from Florida or the Gulf of Mexico. For David Martin, part owner (with father Gene) of the Piggly Wiggly supermarket in Coligny Plaza, offering what he believes is a superior product is worth the additional effort and expense. "As an independent (grocer), carrying high-quality local shrimp gives me one more item, or advantage, that the guy down the street doesn't have. Local shrimp are sweeter and have much more flavor than generic shrimp raised on farms." Martin, who has always carried local shrimp, added that many restaurants would rather choose preparation ease over quality. "For local restaurants to serve fresh, local shrimp, it's more work. It's easier just to take a bag out of their well-stocked freezers and thaw a needed portion." Martin, on the other hand, buys just enough shrimp to constitute about one to one and a half day's supply; he ices, drains and re-ices it daily. Another possible deterrent for purchasing local shrimp is liability. Many vendors feel more protected against possible lawsuits when carrying products purchased from an approved warehouse that will bear responsibility in the event of negative incidents, versus taking their chances with local providers and risking legal issues. Martin's Piggly Wiggly carries extra insurance just for this reason. In addition to ease and liability issues, many vendors cite expense as a reason for selecting imports, claiming that the nonindigenous shrimp can cost about 10-15 percent less than local water inhabitants. Commented Martin, "Local shrimp can often be purchased at about the same price as farm raised. Chinese shrimp (that are raised eating meal made with ground chloramphenicol) flood the market and cause the market price for farm-raised shrimp to decrease, sometimes as much as 20-25 percent." The lack of local processing facilities that can peel, cut, freeze or package, is yet another drawback for merchants who want to "have it their way." Some also claim that shipping and delivery issues - unavailability or cost-related - make purchasing local shrimp unappealing. In spite of all the aforementioned arguments against local shrimp purchase, Martin will "carry on." He said, "It's definitely more labor intensive, but we want to carry the best. The local shrimp is a high-quality good and we've never had anyone ever return the product." Tony Poythress, owner of the Piggly Wiggly in Shelter Cove Plaza, also carries local shrimp. "We carry it when it's available. We try to offer the freshest caught. It's great quality shrimp, and we believe in supporting businesses in the Lowcountry. It's good to support the community," he said. Longtime local restaurateur and wholesale business owner Barbara Hudson (of Hudson's restaurant) passionately agrees with their sentiments. "The shrimp served at Hudson's comes from my wholesale business, and I'm a firm believer in chemical-free products. People have reactions to drugs. If you need to put preservatives on them (shrimp), then you don't need to be eating them." Hudson's business takes shrimp right from the boat, often cutting off heads right on the dock, and ships the desired Lowcountry swimmers to Ga., Ala., N.C., and even N.Y. She added, "We offer a good, sound product that won't kill you. I don't know anyone who would risk their health to save a few cents." Mark Smith, president of the Shrimpers Association - Southern Chapter for six years, has been shrimping for 25 years. According to many who share his trade of choice, it can be a feast or famine existence in a labor-intensive industry that has fallen on very hard times. Smith says that shrimpers have come together and appreciate the outpouring of community support. He said, "We had a bad season last year, so much-needed boat repairs will be rare this year. Most shrimpers have just barely enough to live on." Smith attributes some of the hardship, like an extremely low shrimp population this year, to Mother Nature, but says much of the harm comes from excessive importation. "We have a superior product, but we're competing with cheaper costs. People should support local shrimp. Especially when we offer something better." Importation has caused a nationwide crippling effect, prompting Smith's organization to join forces and fundraising efforts with similar organizations from here to Texas. This "union" has enabled shrimpers to speak as one, more powerful voice and pool resources to send representatives to Washington to plead their case. Their efforts have not been fruitless. To ease some of the shrimpers' hardships, $1.5 million of $2 million recently appropriated to S.C. by the Disaster Relief Committee was earmarked for direct financial assistance to shrimpers. Some of the funds are intended to help shrimpers promote S.C. shrimp via a marketing plan. The remainder will be doled out to shrimpers who meet specific guidelines established and approved by the Shrimpers Assoc., the state Department of Natural Resources, the S.C. Sea Grant Consortium and Clemson University. Said Smith, "It's a slow process when you have to deal with a lot of red tape, but I tell folks to just be patient." He says his organization appreciates the efforts being made to aid the industry but doesn't agree with all proposed measures, such as moving the onset of shrimping season from May 15 to June 15. According to Smith, the move was suggested in response to a cold winter and attempt to extend the growing period, but he does not believe it is a good idea. "This won't work, because the shrimp lay their eggs toward the end of May, then move offshore where they begin dying out." He also believes that run-off from area golf courses is killing local wildlife. Woody Collins, former owner of Captain Woody's restaurant, has been part of the shrimping industry for nearly 50 years. He's seen a lot of changes and says that area residents need to work together to make local shrimp synonymous with the Lowcountry. "People come here for great golf and great beaches. When they try local shrimp, they comment about how wonderful it is. Why not promote our excellent shrimp the same way?" He suggests increasing efforts to brand South Carolina shrimp the way that Vidalia onions have been branded by Georgia and Idaho potatoes by their home state. Collins believes this endeavor can only boost tourism by offering yet another amenity with which our region can attract visitors while simultaneously aiding local businesses. He said, "Our shrimp should be a goodwill ambassador for tourists. Think about how people view Spanish moss. Shrimpers work hard to provide a delicious product that we have come to love and enjoy. We should support their efforts." What are you putting on your dinner table? ™